Getting to our final destination truly required planes, trains, and automobiles. After a long day of travel, we finally arrived in Levanto, where the hotel promptly picked us up. Our stay for four nights was at Park Hotel Argento, perched atop a hill with breathtaking views of the town below.
Exhausted but excited, we decided to stay in for dinner, and it turned out to be a fantastic choice. We indulged in delicious pesto pasta, savory seafood risotto, and a perfectly sweet dessert tart. During dinner, we met a lovely couple from Paris traveling with their miniature collie, who stayed loyally by their side—even at the table.
A Food Tour with Enrica in Genoa, Italy
Thanks to a recommendation from Laurel Evans, a fellow food writer in Liguria, I had the pleasure of joining Enrica Monzani’s walking food tour through the charming streets of Genoa. Enrica, a talented local guide, offers immersive food tours and cooking classes, making her a must-meet for any foodie in the region.
We traveled by train from Levanto, a little over an hour’s ride, and met our group at 10:30 AM. Our small group of eight included couples from Hawaii, Switzerland, Germany, and Texas. It was a wonderful mix of cultures, united by a shared love for food. Enrica was incredible, weaving together history and personal stories as we explored Genoa’s culinary treasures. Some of the highlights of the tour were unforgettable:
- Caffe Gelato at Cremeria Buonafede: When the owner casually passed by with a giant tub of freshly made gelato, John and I were speechless. The espresso flavor was so intense and creamy, it was a life-changing experience.
- Focaccia from Antico Forno della Casana: This bakery, recently featured on Stanley Tucci’s Searching for Italy, serves a focaccia that was simply out of this world. The flavors were divine—crispy, airy, and perfectly seasoned.
- Pesto at Pestobene: Genova is famous for its pesto, and the version we tasted at Pestobene lived up to the hype. Served on freshly baked bread, it was rich and flavorful, leaving us savoring every bite. Seeing the quirky electric pesto-making machine in action gave us a good laugh!
Every stop on this tour was thoughtfully curated, and each bite told a story of Genoa’s vibrant food culture. If you ever find yourself in Liguria, this tour with Enrica is a must. It’s more than just a food tour—it’s a delicious dive into the heart of Genova’s culinary soul.
Dinner at Gattabriga
Gattabriga, ranked as the #1 restaurant in Levanto, was at the top of our must-visit list. Turns out Gattabriga means cat fight in English. When we walked in, we were pleasantly surprised to recognize our waitress—she also helped with the breakfast service at our hotel. She greeted us with a warm smile and led us to a cozy table in the center of the dining room.
The menu was entirely in Italian, so Google Translate quickly became our best friend. Being so close to the sea, seafood dominated the menu—and we weren’t about to pass that up. We started with a light, flavorful appetizer: a salmon patty paired with a tangy vinaigrette. Then came the main event—seafood spaghetti. I was taken aback when the plate arrived, showcasing striking black noodles. After a brief moment of hesitation (and a little self-convincing that it was just pasta), I dove in—and it was worth every bite.
Dessert was the hardest decision of the evening, so we opted to share two classics: tiramisu and pie. Both were the perfect sweet endings to an unforgettable meal in Levanto.
Discovering the Magic of the Cinque Terre
We enjoyed a peaceful breakfast with a beautiful view, mapping out our day of exploring the Cinque Terre’s charming towns along the coast. The forecast called for rain, but we were determined to make the best of it. At the train station, we purchased the Cinque Terre day pass, which made hopping on and off trains between the towns incredibly convenient. While waiting on the platform, we crossed paths with a tour group of older travelers. Their guide looked frazzled and shared that she’d been in the hospital two nights earlier, frustrated with people traveling despite health issues. It was a reminder of how challenging group travel can be.
Our journey began in the southernmost town, Riomaggiore, and we worked our way north. Riomaggiore’s colorful buildings stacked along the cliffs were picture-perfect. We wandered to the edge of the cliffs, where the rocks met the sea, and even with gray skies and rain, the views were breathtaking.
For lunch, we followed Mattia’s rock-solid recommendation in Manarola: Capun Magru, a small restaurant perched at the top of the hill. It was so popular that we had a 30-minute wait, but it was worth it. Their specialty is a seafood sandwich inspired by the Cinque Terre’s five towns. We split the shrimp and octopus sandwiches, both incredibly fresh and flavorful. Dessert was equally memorable—we couldn’t choose, so we shared tiramisu and walnut cake, and neither disappointed.
The real charm of the Cinque Terre lies in its hiking trails that connect the towns. Unfortunately, with the rain, hiking wasn’t ideal. Instead, we walked along a vineyard-lined path on the cliffs, capturing stunning views of the sea and the villages below.
Corniglia was our next stop, sitting about 100 meters above the train station. Thankfully, our day pass included a free bus ride up the steep hill. Corniglia’s tiny streets and narrow walkways were full of surprises around every corner, making it one of the most quaint and peaceful towns to explore. As we waited in line for the bus back down, we were caught in a torrential downpour so intense that my umbrella began to leak. We met a lovely couple from Portugal and decided to skip the bus, instead walking the 382 steps down to the train station together.
Our final stop was Monterosso, where we found a cozy spot at Ely’s Caffè and enjoyed the comfort of cappuccinos while resting our feet. Dinner that evening was unforgettable. Mattia had secured a reservation at L’Ancora della Tortuga, a hidden gem carved into the cliffs overlooking the sea. This Michelin-starred restaurant exceeded every expectation. We savored pesto risotto, truffle pasta, and ravioli, each dish more perfect than the last. The ambiance, the food, and even the view of an old war bunker in the distance made it a meal to remember. It was the perfect way to end an unforgettable day exploring the Cinque Terre.
A Day of Peace and Relaxation
With the rain pouring down, we decided to take it easy and spend the day relaxing at the resort. A visit to the Turkish bath seemed like the perfect way to unwind—though a lively family of boys ensured it was more entertaining than peaceful.
For dinner, Mattia recommended Le Due Lune Trattoria Pizzeria, and it did not disappoint. We savored every bite of the stuffed mussels, beer-battered fish, ravioli, and perfectly cooked red snapper.
As we returned to the lobby, Mattia was there to greet us, as he often was. I took the opportunity to thank him for his incredible hospitality and for going above and beyond to make sure all our meals on this trip were truly unforgettable.
