After struggling with luggage on cobblestone streets, we happily took a cab to the train station and in a Tesla, no less! John was puzzled about how to open the door (his first time in a Tesla), and I couldn’t help but laugh. The train ride to Rome was smooth, and we shared our space with a lovely Canadian couple on a six-week European adventure.
Upon arrival, another taxi made sense, though the line was a bit chaotic with impatient folks and opinions flying. But the real drama came from a rogue cab that blocked the entire line! To this day, we’re not sure what his strategy was besides irritating everyone. Luckily, our driver was friendly and super helpful.
We checked into our hotel, laughing at how our rooms keep getting smaller with each stop. Unpacked and ready to eat, we turned to Google and found Pinsitaly, a local spot with rave reviews. It was worth the wait for our personal pizzas, each one absolutely delicious.
Then we headed to the Trevi Fountain only to find it drained and under repair for the upcoming Jubilee, with workers scraping calcium off the bottom. I was heartbroken! Not exactly the magical first view I’d hoped for, but Rome is preparing for 30-60 million visitors next year, so construction is everywhere.
Dinner was a spontaneous adventure. We decided to stay closer to the hotel and headed to Colline Emiliane, a Michelin restaurant with quite the reputation. Arriving before it opened, we ended up chatting with a mother and son from Peru who were in the catering business, so the conversation naturally turned to food. The host warned that seating was tight, but after patiently waiting, we scored a table!
People kept arriving only to be told they’re fully booked through mid-November. Sitting near the third-generation host, we savored every bite of pumpkin ravioli, sautéed broccoli with a touch of spice, and fried meatballs with mashed potatoes. Absolutely amazing!
Savoring Rome: Parla Food Tour
We started our day with breakfast at the hotel before heading out to meet Arianna from Parla Tours for the “Roman Cuisine in Prati & Trionfale” food tour. First stop was La Fiorentina, where we tried a simple yet delicious biscuit made with only two ingredients. It’s amazing how Italian cuisine focuses on simplicity without sacrificing flavor.
Next, we visited one of Arianna’s favorite outdoor markets. We learned that Rome has over 70 markets, ensuring fresh food is always just a short walk away for residents. At a meat and cheese stand, we sampled the creamiest mozzarella paired with prosciutto and discovered taralli, a slightly sweet, healthy biscuit that’s heavenly when wrapped in prosciutto.
While it’s artichoke season, the unusually heavy rains mean all the artichokes are currently imported from nearby regions. We also learned that the little pointed tomatoes (not for eating raw) are perfect for pasta sauces.
Then, we headed to Bonci, a local pizza legend who transformed how pizza is made. We grabbed a couple of slices with no cheese, just sauce and simple toppings, letting the flavors shine. Fun fact: in Italy, you order pizza by weight, not by slice. Our final stop was gelato at La Riserva della, where we snagged a table and chatted about life in Italy.
After saying our goodbyes, rain started to pour, but we still wanted to see the Colosseum. Not our best idea. The moment we emerged from the Metro, we were met by a sea of people all trying to avoid the rain under the walkway. Absolute chaos. We managed to cross the street for a quick photo of John by the Colosseum under his umbrella, but then the sky opened up, and we made a dash back. It was crowded madness, with everyone pushing to get back into the Metro. Definitely an adventure!
Strolling the Spanish Steps & Dining at Al Pompiere
After the rain cleared, we took a stroll around the block to see the Spanish Steps for the first time at night—absolutely stunning. There’s something magical about walking the streets at night; it offers a completely different vibe. We passed by the Pantheon and the historic site where Julius Caesar was assassinated.
Dinner was a delight at Al Pompiere, recommended by Mattia for its Roman-Jewish cuisine. We were seated in a cozy spot with an open view of a quiet piazza. I savored the lemon pasta, while John enjoyed gnocchi. We also shared some delicious chicken and grilled veggies. For dessert, we indulged in ricotta cake with cherry jam.
A fun moment was chatting with a mother and son at the next table, they were back for their second visit in just one week. She insisted on only the best wine (as if there’s bad wine in Italy) but had her heart set on rosé, which unfortunately wasn’t available. She did recommend Venchi for gelato, and we couldn’t resist stopping by on our way home. She was right, it was incredible!
Handmade Pasta with Grandma
Today was absolutely one of the highlights of my trip. We started the day early, catching a train north to Palombara Sabina for an incredible cooking experience Handmade Pasta with Grandma.
Once we arrived at the train station, we hopped into a van with fellow travelers from Paris, New Jersey, Colorado, and Austin. After a scenic 20-minute drive up the hill, we were welcomed by Nonna Angela, with Lilly translating for us.
After a quick tour of the cellar beneath the kitchen, we donned our aprons and got to work. Two more ladies from Switzerland joined us after a little delay at the train station. Together, we made three types of pasta: bowtie with almond butter and sage sauce, stuffed spinach and ricotta ravioli, and fettuccine with red sauce. Nonna Angela guided us through the hands-on techniques of stretching and rolling out the dough, just flour and eggs are needed.
We shared lots of laughs while preparing an amazing feast. With about 15 minutes to set the table for lunch, we took some time to explore the ancient streets nearby. When it was time to eat, we couldn’t help but laugh when Nonna Angela brought out boxed wine. I’ve never enjoyed so much pasta in one sitting, it was worth every calorie.
After saying our goodbyes, Lilly led us past the castle where the Pope used to retreat. John and I sat in the front seat on our way back, laughing along as our driver blasted Metallica. What a day to remember.
Rome’s Toughest Table: Scoring a Coveted Reservation at Armando al Pantheon
We scored a coveted reservation at Armando al Pantheon. This place books up in minutes and has hosted celebrities and food lovers from around the world. We arrived early, but our table was ready and waiting.
Started with a delightful appetizer: toasted bread topped with stracciatella cheese, Sciacca anchovies, and pistachio. For our main course, we savored short pasta in tomato sauce with pecorino, pork cheek, and black pepper, alongside grilled Roman lamb. Dessert was a heavenly layered cream and berry confection.
Funny moment outside: While admiring the Pantheon, a group of ladies approached us and shared that it takes four people with outstretched arms to encircle one of its columns. When I asked where they were from, they said Oregon – my people!
What a perfect Roman evening – great food, iconic views, and unexpected connections!
Exploring the Vatican by foot and Rome by Golf Cart
Woke up at dawn to be one of the only few catching the subway, arriving at the flower shop meeting point by 7:35 AM. Our small group of 10 was greeted by Eugenia, our incredible guide from Through Eternity Tours. Third time’s the charm. This visit felt like my first, thanks to Eugenia’s wealth of knowledge and the handy headsets. Up until days prior there was scaffolding covering up St. Peter’s Tomb, our guide was thrilled when we walked in and saw it was all removed. Much of the area is under construction as preparations for the Jubilee, starting on December 24th, are underway. Bonus entertainment: Watching the tour guide turf wars unfold. The side-eyes and territorial glares had us laughing. The rich history and sheer magnitude of this place are truly awe-inspiring, it’s an experience just to stand in its presence.
We walked to a Katie Parla-approved coffee break at Sciascia Caffè 1919. The Maritozzi (Roman cream-filled sweet bread) was heavenly. Then, the ultimate Rome experience: a 4.5-hour golf cart tour with Roman Roads Tours. Our driver Simone was full of knowledge and shared the best stories. He helped us finally get that perfect Colosseum shot. We stopped near a building and you could see half of the stone was BC, larger stones and the other half was AD smaller brick like stones.
Lunch tip: Supplì, south of the river, it’s where the locals go. Thank you to Arianna for the recommendation. The pizza was mind-blowing, and don’t get me started on the Supplì (Italian fried meat snack). Piazza Navona is one of the most beautiful and famous squares in Rome and in the world. It was a shame all the fountains were also under construction. Bonus: Simone snuck us into the Spanish University for jaw-dropping city views.
Dinner at Ristorante Pietro Valentini was memorable and came recommended by a friend who was there a month before us. Tucked away on a side street, this local favorite served up fried zucchini husks, unforgettable cheese bread, signature carbonara, sea bass, asparagus and a strawberry cream dessert. The Manager made sure our last Italian meal was truly special.
